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Labradors at work: Support Dogs
What is Hip Dysplasia?
The life of a Gundog
Keeping your dog safe this Christmas
Labradors at work: Support Dogs 
Support Dogs is a UK charity dedicated to improving the quality of life for people with epilepsy, physical disabilities and children with autism by training dogs to act as safe and efficient assistants. Support Dogs train a variety of dog breeds including many Labradors and Labrador crosses. Dogs come from a variety of backgrounds, for example, animal shelters, families who decide to donate their dog, and ‘career change dogs’ (such as guide dogs that would be more suitable for Support Dogs’ needs).
Support Dogs was formed by John Rogerson in 1992. His inspiration came after visiting an organisation in the USA called Top Dog, set up to help disabled owners train their own pet dogs to become safe and reliable assistants. John teamed up with Val Strong in 1993 and the first dogs were trained. Since then, Support Dogs have trained more than 180 partnerships and currently support 68 working partnerships across the UK.
Puppies recruited by Support Dogs are initially looked after by volunteer puppy socialisers who work closely with the charity’s trainers to begin basic obedience and give the dogs experience in all sorts of environments at a young age. Since Support Dogs do not use any kennel facilities, foster carers go on to provide short term or long term care for dogs at all stages (e.g. throughout further training, for new recruits who are not puppies, or for qualified dogs). This often involves looking after dogs at evenings and weekends as many of the dogs will ‘go to school’ Monday to Friday, 9am to 5pm. The charity train three types of assistance dog: Seizure Alert Dogs, Disability Assistance Dogs and Autism Assistance Dogs.
Seizure Alert Dogs are trained to respond and alert their owners to an imminent epileptic seizure by warning up to 45 minutes prior to an attack, enabling their owner to find a place of safety. The security and independence people have gained through having a Seizure Alert Dog is tremendous, not only because they have a warning prior to a seizure, but because they are able to take their dogs with them everywhere. Support Dogs is the only charity in the UK that trains Seizure Alert Dogs.
Disability Assistance Dogs are taught task work tailored to their owner’s needs. Tasks can include opening and closing doors, picking up items, assisting with dressing and undressing, operating control buttons and light switches, loading and unloading the washing machine and raising the alarm. Support Dogs is unique in that their Disability Assistance Dogs are family pets so the special bond that exists between pet and owner can be used to channel the dog’s willingness to help into assistance work.
Autism Assistance Dogs are trained to meet the needs of both child and parents in order to obtain a degree of predictability in social settings. Although every autistic child is unique, many can have mobility issues, lack awareness of danger in everyday situations, and display a tendency to bolt in open spaces. For parents and family members, this results in highly stressful daily life and an inability to function normally in social situations (e.g. eating out or going shopping). The benefits of an Autism Assistance Dog partnership include increased safety and independence, helping the child to participate in education, social and leisure activities, providing comfort and lowering stress and aggression.
Disability can not only make even the simplest of everyday tasks difficult, it can also lead to isolation, loss of confidence, feelings of low self-esteem and depression. Support Dogs help to transform lives by restoring a disabled person's sense of security, confidence and independence. The dogs are recognisable by their distinctive blue jacket and lead slips and as Recognised Assistance Dogs, they have full access into restricted areas and are able to accompany their owner at all times. For more information please visit, http://www.support-dogs.org.uk/index.htm.
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What is Hip Dysplasia?
Canine hip dysplasia is an abnormal development of the hip joint, producing laxity (looseness) of the tissues around the joint, instability of the joint, and malformation of the ball of the hip (femoral head) and the socket (acetabulum). The laxity of the hip joint allows the ball to move in and out of the socket (subluxation), which results in varying degrees of discomfort and dysfunction. Hip dysplasia leads to osteoarthritis of the affected hip joint. Osteoarthritis is a disease where the cartilage in the joint wears out, which causes pain and discomfort of the joint.
Hip dysplasia has a strong genetic basis, although the genes which cause the disease have not yet been fully identified, in spite of extensive investigation. Other factors can influence whether dogs develop the disease such as nutrition, bodyweight and the levels of particular hormones. Because hip dysplasia can affect individual dogs to differing degrees (i.e. it is not ”black and white”, more “various shades of grey”) it very difficult to estimate what the true frequency of the disease is in dogs. Clinically affected dogs are usually presented either within their first year of life, with pain and lameness resulting from the ‘loose’ hip joint, or after their first year of life with pain and lameness due to the development of osteoarthritis.
The diagnosis of canine hip dysplasia is based upon clinical examination and X-rays. Affected dogs will often have a history of exercise intolerance, reluctance to jump or obvious lameness. Classically, affected dogs exhibit a stiff, stilted or “rolling” gait when walking or running. It should be noted that none of these signs are specific for canine hip dysplasia, and they can be observed with other causes of hind leg lameness. Physical examination will identify hip pain and joint instability in some cases.
Diagnosis is confirmed by X-rays where the appearance of the hip joints are assessed (Figures 1a & 1b). These features can be used to give a “score” for a dog’s hips, through the British Veterinary Association / Kennel Club Hip scoring scheme. The higher the score, the worse the hip dysplasia. The Kennel Club advise that dogs should only be used for breeding if their hip score is less than the average score for the breed. Breeders of Labrador Retrievers have done a tremendous job in screening for the disease in their breed, with between half and three quarters of all breeding dogs having been screened / scored for disease. This has resulted in a progressive improvement in the level of hip dysplasia (i.e. a reduction in the average score of dogs screened) reported by the scheme.
Figure 1a: An X-ray of normal hips in a skeletally immature Labrador. The “ball” of each hip joint fits well into the “socket”.
Figure 1b: An X-ray showing severe hip dysplasia in a skeletally immature Labrador. Note how poorly the “balls” of each hip joint sit (or rather don’t sit) into each “socket”.
A number of factors influence the treatment of the dysplastic patient, such as finances, the age of the patient and the degree of discomfort and disability experienced by the patient. There is no known cure for hip dysplasia, thus all treatments address the clinical signs (i.e. the pain, rather than making the hip normal and restoring cartilage to the joint), although some treatments may slow the natural progression of the disorder.
The management options in young and old dogs differ. In skeletally immature dogs, treatment aims to reduce pain associated with the hip subluxation. In older dogs, treatment addresses the pain associated with the osteoarthritic joint. Dogs can be treated with painkillers, or with surgery. When the disease is severe, then surgical removal of the diseased hip or total hip replacement is widely available as a treatment, in exactly the same way we replace the hip joints of people with severe arthritis. As ever through, prevention is better than cure…hence the information you provide to Dogslife will help us to identify which environmental factors might alter the risk of a dog developing hip dysplasia. At the same time a new study at the Roslin Institute and Animal Health Trust has just been started to try and develop a genetic test for the disease in the future. Hopefully these two studies will help to minimise the risks of Labradors (and other breeds) developing the disease in time to come.
Figure 2: An X-ray after a total hip replacement. Can you guess which joint has been replaced? The socket is replaced by a plastic cup (which you can’t see on an X-ray, but it looks like a black halo around the ball) and the ball of the hip joint replaced by a metal ball. Both the “prostheses” are held into the bone with cement.
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The life of a Gundog
Labradors were bred to retrieve items and they love to bring you a trophy. Training as a gundog takes advantage of this natural skill and channels their energy and abilities in a controlled and regulated way. Obedience training is important for every dog, and training to retrieve is one way of achieving this goal.
Training to be a gundog starts as a puppy. Young dogs are usually introduced to obedience and basic training at around 4 to 5 months of age. This includes the ‘hup’ (sit and stay) command, heel work on the lead, progressing to work off the lead, and the recall and stop whistle. All of this is done in ‘play’ mode so that the pup always enjoys its training session which lasts no longer than 10 - 15 minutes to start with.
When happy with the pup’s progress, other commands are introduced into its training. Each dog develops at its own rate so training is tailored individually to ensure that it is enjoyable at all times.
Once basic training has been completed (usually after 4 - 6 months) more advanced training can begin. The dog is introduced to shot and directional work, ranging the dog out over longer distances, jumping walls and ditches, retrieving on water, and introducing cold (dead) game retrieves.
When this has been achieved, the dog is prepared for its introduction onto its first shoot day. Initially the dog is kept in a car with a more experienced adult dog for company for the first couple of drives to allow it to acclimatise to the general atmosphere, people talking, other dogs, and the guns going off. The dog will be taken out on its first drive towards the end of the day to let it get used to the scents, sounds and sights without any retrieves.
After a season or so on the shoot, or if dogs have proven to be steady and consistent with their work, they can then be aimed towards Gundog Working Tests. These tests are designed to encourage the dog’s natural working ability but do not involve shooting live game. The tests are carried out using dummies or cold game and are a natural extension of their training. Labradors are tested on their finding ability and the speed and directness of the retrieve. Judges look for quick pick ups and fast returns as well as a natural nose, marking ability, quietness in handling, control, drive and style.
After proving themselves in the shooting and working test fields, dogs are introduced to field trialling. Field Trials resemble, as closely as possible, a day's shooting in the field and dogs are expected to work with all manner of game. A Field Trial meeting may consist of one or more Stakes. For example, Novice, All-aged or Open Stakes which are all separate competitions at the trial. Awards are given by way of a 1st, 2nd, 3rd or 4th placing or a Certificate of Merit (COM) within a Stake. Good dogs can work for their whole lives, as long as they are fit and healthy.
Many thanks to Ian Whittle of Peniglen Gundog Labradors for his contribution to this article
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Keeping your dog safe this Christmas
At Christmas time, many of our homes will be filled with seasonal treats such as mince pies and boxes of chocolates. These festive foods are tasty for us, but can make your dog poorly if they eat them. For example, chocolate contains a chemical called theobromine which can be poisonous to dogs if it is eaten in sufficient quantities. Another potential risk is leftover chicken or turkey; dogs can easily choke on the bones they contain. To prevent your dog becoming unwell, it is best to keep Christmas nibbles out of their reach. If you suspect your dog has eaten something they shouldn’t, contact your vet.
Many dogs are intrigued by Christmas presents and decorations and may try to play with them but there are a few possible dangers to watch out for. Wrapping paper, string, tinsel, hanging decorations and spray snow could all be perilous if chewed or swallowed. Christmas presents and children's toys may have small parts that your dog could gnaw off and choke on. Christmas tree lights and other electrical decorations could prove hazardous to your dog if they chew through wires, get tangled up or pull the Christmas tree over injuring themselves or someone else! If you have a real Christmas tree, the needles which fall may become stuck in your dog's paws and could make them ill if eaten. Your dog may also try to drink the tree water or make their mark against it so there are lots of reasons to keep an eye on your dog if they are around the tree! It is also worth knowing that many popular Christmas houseplants such as Mistletoe, Holly, Poinsettias, Amaryllis and ferns are poisonous to dogs so are best kept out of range (seek veterinary advice if you think your pet has ingested any of these plants).
Like many households, you may be receiving extra guests over Christmas time. If you have family and friends coming to see you, you may wish to lay down some ground rules where your dog is concerned to prevent any mishaps. For example, asking your guests not to feed your dog and ensuring they keep party food, drinks and presents where your dog cannot get to them. With all the festive enthusiasm and unusual noises such as Christmas crackers, children’s toys and party music, dogs can become over excited or frightened. Your dog may benefit from a safe, familiar and quiet retreat where they can go and relax away from all the excitement. To keep them occupied, you may like to provide some of their favourite chews or a toy and leave the TV or radio on to help block out the noise. You may find that exercising your dog before guests arrive can help them settle down whilst you enjoy the festivities.
Another way to help your dog stay relaxed over Christmas is to try to keep to your dog’s normal routine as far as possible. Taking time out to walk your dog and play with them as well as feeding them at the regular time can help relieve stress and stop your pet becoming bored and possibly destructive.
Shopping for Christmas presents may also include buying one for your dog! When choosing a gift for your dog, it is safer to buy toys specifically designed for dogs as other treats and toys may harm them if they have not been designed with dogs in mind. If you are giving out presents to more than one dog, think about how each dog is going to react with their new possession around the other dogs.
We hope you have a safe and fun-filled festive season. Merry Christmas from everyone at Dogslife!
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